突然看到的實用資訊:備份下來,也許改天幫朋友debug VW GOLF MK2 用得到
Ref: Commet on https://www.facebook.com/groups/vwcorradoownersclub/posts/1375206023484532/
Basic Steps to Troubleshooting Bad Idle on a Corrado G60, for Beginners
First, do this basics to eliminate some variables:
DEGUNK THE Idle Stabilizer Valve (ISV) - Pull it off, spray it full of brake/parts/carb cleaner. Shake it around with the cleaner inside, empty it out, repeat until the cleaner comes out clear. Remember, do not unplug the ISV with the key in the accessory or on position. THis is bad for the ECU.
Check for vacuum leaks. There are a load of vacuum lines on the G60. The stock lines are rubber wrapped in a braided cloth and can dry-rot and crack. I replaced all of mine, from the dealer, for less than $40. Just ask for the diameters and lengths, and they should be able to cut them for you.
Here are the sizes, courtesy of the G60 Forum FAQ:
3.5 mm size line: 34" (brake booster line) + 39.5" (1 meter ECU line) + 6" (FPR) + 55"(charcoal mainifold) + 30" (air box to brake booster line) = 14.3 feet
9 mm size line: 40" (throttle body to charcoal)
5 mm size line: = 23" (brake booster to charcoal) + 28" (fuel tank breather line to charcoal) = 4 feet 3 inches.
That one-meter throttle-body to ECU line is important. There are two vacuum lines that go to the throttle body, and the ECU line connects to the nipple closest to the passenger side.
Second, Look at the electrical stuff.
Make sure there is no interruption in the spark: spark plugs/wires...make sure they are in good shape.
There's an electrical switch on the throttle body called the "idle switch" that should click on when the throttle is closed. Not surprisingly, the car will not idle right if this switch is fouled. It might not even start. It shares its connection to the harness with the wide-open throttle (WOT) switch, and the plug is on the back of the throttle body.
The fuel injector harness is in a crappy place, between the head and intake manifold, where there certainly is significant heat. The insulation gets very brittle over time and there is the potential for electrical shorts. Check it.
Look for corrosion at grounding points. Particularly the ground on the coolant flange on the (transmission) side of the cylinder head.
Third, determine under what conditions idle is poor.
>Is it bad when the car is cold but better when the car warms up?
>Or is it good when the car is cold and worsens when the car gets warmed up?
>Or is it just crappy all the time?
>Idle Is Bad When The Car Is Cold:
If you disconnect the blue coolant temp sensor while the engine is running and it idles better, you probably need a new blue coolant temp sensor.
If that doesn't do it, then check the O2 sensor, check your timing and reset your idle*
>Idle Is Bad When The Car Is Warm.
If you disconnect the o2 sensor before or while the engine is running, and the car idles better, you probably need a new o2 sensor.
If that doesn't do it, then check the blue CTS, check your timing and reset your idle.* If the idle is set too low, then the ISV will attempt to compensate for it once the car is out of cold-start mode, and the idle will be bonkers.
>Idle Just Sucks All The Time. Either the timing is way, way off, or you didn't set the idle right (too low).*
*Remember, the idle won't set correctly using the idle screw if you don't have the ISV unplugged.
And remember the method for setting the timing: The car must be warm, with the blue CTS unplugged, and the motor must be at ~2500 rpm. Set it for 6-8 degrees BTDC.
If idle is still bad, ask the experts in the G60 tech forum and read through the G60 tech forum FAQ if you haven't already and be sure to tell them you've done the basics.